Questions
answered.

Epoxy floor coating is a two-part system — a resin and a hardener — that chemically bond when mixed and applied to concrete. The result is a hard, seamless, non-porous surface that bonds directly to the concrete substrate. It's significantly more durable than paint and far more hygienic than bare concrete.

Epoxy is used for the base and body coat — it bonds well to concrete and builds thickness. Polyurea or polyaspartic is used as the topcoat — it's UV-stable (won't yellow), more flexible, and cures much faster. A quality floor coating system uses both: epoxy foundation, polyurea protection on top.

A properly installed, commercial-grade epoxy system with a polyurea topcoat will last 15–25 years in a residential garage or basement. Commercial environments with heavy traffic or chemical exposure can expect 10–15 years before any significant wear. The lifespan is almost entirely determined by prep quality and product selection — not the topcoat color or the brand name on the bucket.

We're based in Albany, NY and serve within a 200-mile radius — covering all of Upstate New York, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. Travel fees may apply for jobs beyond 100 miles; ask at time of quote.

Both. Our residential work includes garages, basements, gym spaces, and laundry rooms. Commercial work includes warehouses, manufacturing facilities, retail showrooms, restaurants, veterinary clinics, and medical offices. The systems we use vary by application — we don't install a residential garage product in a forklift environment.

Epoxy bonds to the concrete mechanically — through a physical profile created by grinding or shot blasting. Without that profile, the coating is essentially glued to dust. Inadequate prep is the cause of probably 60% of all coating failures. The right prep takes hours; skipping it takes minutes. Most failures we remediate trace directly back to a contractor who skipped this step.

Concrete is porous. Water vapor from below — from the soil, groundwater, or capillary action — migrates up through the slab. When that vapor reaches the underside of a floor coating, the pressure can push the coating off the substrate, causing bubbles, blisters, and delamination. We test MVER on every job before any coating decision is made, per ASTM F1869 and F2170.

Yes. The space needs to be completely clear — no vehicles, no shelving, no storage. We can help move light items to one side and work in sections on very large spaces, but for most residential garages the whole space needs to be empty before we start.

Usually no — at least not reliably. Existing coatings need to be removed so the new system bonds directly to the concrete substrate. We assess existing conditions during the site visit and tell you exactly what's needed. Installing over existing coatings without proper removal almost always leads to failure.

Walk-on time is typically 12–24 hours after the final coat, depending on temperature and humidity. Vehicle traffic is usually safe after 48–72 hours. For polyaspartic topcoats, these times can be significantly shorter — walk-on in 4–6 hours. We give you the exact numbers for your system and conditions before we leave the job site.

Residential garage floors typically run $3–8 per square foot installed, depending on system complexity, prep requirements, and moisture conditions. A standard 2-car garage (400–600 sq ft) with a flake system usually runs $1,800–4,000. Commercial projects are quoted per project based on area, system, and conditions. We don't quote per square foot over the phone — we quote per actual site assessment.

Most residential garages and small commercial projects can be completed in one to two days. Larger commercial spaces may take three to five days depending on square footage and system complexity. We give you a specific timeline in the written proposal — start date, expected completion date, and when the floor is ready for traffic.

No. The written proposal covers all prep, materials, installation, and cleanup. The only additions that could change the price are things we discover after grinding — like significantly worse moisture than the initial test indicated, or substrate damage that wasn't visible before grinding. These are rare and we communicate immediately if conditions change.

Yes. We typically require 40–50% down to schedule and order materials, with the balance due at project completion. Payment terms are specified in the proposal before any work begins.

Sweep or blow out dust and debris regularly. Mop with a neutral pH cleaner — avoid harsh acids or bleach which can dull the finish over time. For commercial kitchens and food-service environments, we specify chemical-resistant topcoats that stand up to daily sanitizer use. The floor care sheet we leave after installation covers everything specific to your system.

A commercial-grade polyurea topcoat is very scratch resistant under normal use. Dragging heavy sharp metal objects — like a jack stand with no rubber feet — can scratch any floor surface. For environments with heavy equipment, we specify harder topcoat formulations or higher-build systems. Ask about your specific situation at time of quote.

Not if it's done right. We use UV-stable polyurea and polyaspartic topcoats on every job. Amber-tinted or yellowed epoxy floors are the result of non-UV-stable formulations — usually cheaper products or DIY kits. Our topcoats are rated for exterior use, which means they hold color indoors indefinitely.

We include slip-resistant aggregate in the topcoat on every floor, standard. For commercial kitchens, medical environments, or areas with consistent wet traffic, we can increase the texture profile. For showrooms and lobbies where aesthetics are the priority, the standard aggregate gives reasonable traction without visible texture from a distance.

Almost certainly moisture. Water vapor pushing up from below is the leading cause of epoxy delamination. The second most common cause is inadequate surface prep — the coating didn't bond to a properly profiled substrate. We can inspect, diagnose, and remediate failed floors. We provide a written diagnosis report before we begin any remediation work.

Yes. We diagnose and remediate floors installed by other contractors regularly. We'll remove the failed system, identify the root cause, correct it, and install the right system. We warranty our remediation work the same as any other installation.

If we removed the old system, repaired the substrate, and installed a new system from scratch — yes, we warranty that work fully. We can't warranty repairs over an existing coating we didn't fully remove and inspect.

Common signs: bubbles or blisters in the coating, edges lifting, areas that feel hollow when tapped, or white efflorescence on the concrete surface. But some slabs with elevated MVER show no visible symptoms before coating — which is why we test every slab. You can't reliably diagnose moisture with a visual inspection alone.